Eckhaus Latta’s show was packed, not only with critics and the editors of major magazines — more than usual, it seemed to me — but also with genuine friends and fans. The brand, which is designed by Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta, who met at Rhode Island School of Design, has been on the rise these past few seasons, in part because it presents an increasingly fleshed-out vision, both of clothes and community.
You believed that these people would wear these clothes, both those who milled around after the show eating dumplings and sipping weed-leaf cocktails and those who had featured in it: among them, the singer Kelela, the artist Lucy Chadwick, young Coco Gordon Moore (Sonic Youth scion of Kim and Thurston) and Susan Cianciolo, whose art-house fashion shows for her Run line in the 1990s were in some way the progenitors of Eckhaus Latta’s. That makes a kind of thread, one that connects Eckhaus Latta to its community, to the past and to the future — pull it, and it can take you to interesting places.
After the show, I piled into a car with Ms. Cianciolo’s gallerist, Bridget Donahue, herself a sometime Eckhaus Latta model, to head to her gallery, where the Lou Dallas show was set to begin. (Next up at the gallery: an exhibition by Ms. Cianciolo.) Lou Dallas is designed by Raffaella Hanley, whose practice also is closer to art than to commercial fashion: her pieces, most of them of recycled or dead-stock fabrics, are all hand-embroidered, hand-embellished and, at the end, often hand-sewn on the models. If New York Fashion Week is destined to be tarred with the “commercial” brush, it was cheering to remember that there are plenty of others making things devoutly weird, small and hand-crafted. Really, they always have. — M.S.
Prabal Gurung Brought Gloria Steinem (and Fine Jewelry) to Fashion Week
There were plenty of good moments at the Prabal Gurung show. Unlike many of the front rows this season, which feature up-and-coming actresses, Mr. Gurung’s featured Huma Abedin and Gloria Steinem — the first time Ms. Steinem had ever been to a fashion show. The casting, too, was notable: Gigi and Bella Hadid walked alongside Ashley Graham and Andreja Pejic. But despite all this excitement, it was hard for me to take my eyes off of Mr. Gurung’s debut collection with Tasaki, the Japanese fine jeweler, where he was recently been named global creative director. His pieces, including twisting, architectural earrings (in white gold and pearl) inspired by Surrealism, were the perfect accompaniment to the stunning evening dresses. — M.J.G.
Marc Jacobs Ended the Week With the Sound of Silence
The Marc Jacobs show has always been a loud punctuation mark to New York Fashion Week, but this season, as with his last, was shown in complete silence. It was staged at the expansive, high-ceilinged Park Avenue Armory uptown, and there was no elaborate set, no fancy lighting and no music. All one could hear was the sound of the wildly eclectic clothes — some ornately beaded, others heavy with shimmery scales of sequins — swishing as models walked on the old wood floors. There were turbans pinned with jeweled brooches with almost every look, lots of swirling ’60s-style printed column dresses with black opera gloves, and embellishment in all shapes, colors and forms, including metallic colored tinsel on sandals and sparkly boas. Seating was arranged on metal folding chairs on the perimeter of the wide open space, which made guests on the other side of the room seem tiny and the models, who carried weekend totes and wore fanny packs, look as if they were in transit, roaming a giant old European train station en route to somewhere exotic and very, very far away. — A.B.