Indo-Chinese Food Is Hard to Find, Except in New Jersey


We thought it fitting to start our crawl with the most popular Indo-Chinese dish, Manchurian chicken, which we found at Calcutta Chinese Food, a restaurant tucked in one of Oak Tree Road’s countless strip malls. It is the kind of Chinese takeout joint where you order at the counter by pointing at photos of food on the wall. Posters of the Taj Mahal hung in the tiny dining space, next to red banners featuring the Cantonese symbol for wealth. Chinese customers mixed with Indians. Manchurian chicken employs Chinese techniques, but its red gravy, heavy on ginger, chilies and garlic, has the consistency of an Indian curry. A vegetarian version is made with cauliflower.

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Dishes at Calcutta Chinese Food in Edison.

Credit
Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

Calcutta Chinese Food’s proprietress, who would only identify herself as Mrs. Liu, said that dishes like Hakka lo mein noodles, curry chicken and a Chinese take on vegetable pakoras (a common Indian fried vegetable fritter) are similar to what Chinese people from Kolkata eat in their homes. Mrs. Liu said her grandparents, who spoke the Hakka dialect, emigrated in the 1920s from Canton to Kolkata, the only Indian city with a sizable Chinese population.

It would be an oversimplification to say that Indian-Chinese food is solely an export of Kolkata, however. Camellia Panjabi, the author of “50 Great Curries of India,” claims to have instigated what continues to be India’s most successful food fad when she opened Golden Dragon in Mumbai in the early 1970s, the country’s first Sichuan restaurant.

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An Indo-Chinese pizza at Papa Pancho in Edison.

Credit
Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

I found the most distinctive — and delicious — Indo-Chinese dish to be Chinese idli at Dimple’s Bombay Talk, a casual restaurant in Iselin at the other end of Oak Tree Road, about three miles away, with a show kitchen and a mostly Indian clientele. Idli is a common South Indian breakfast dish made of discs of fermented rice batter, steamed and served with a piquant soup called sambar (it is also, as Mr. Honawar preferred, gluten free). This Chinese version was fashioned into cubes and prepared in a similar fashion to Manchurian chicken, only spicier, since hot green chilies were featured prominently.

After a digestive pause for buying Indian groceries at the incomparable and huge Patel Brothers Food Market in Iselin, we ordered garlic chicken, a vegetable stir-fry and vegetable noodles with a spicy bright red Sichuan sauce from the Indo Chinese menu at Moghul Express in Edison, which also has full north and south Indian menus and a display case crammed with dozens of varieties of multicolored, super-sugary Indian sweets. The spaghetti-like noodles were the standout, reminding me of the peppery roadside preparation I’d sometimes eat in Mumbai.

Much of this feast ended up in takeout containers because, before heading back to the city, I wanted to try an Indo-Chinese pizza, which I found at Papa Pancho, next door to Moghul Express. Papa Pancho had all sorts of Indian and Italian combinations, but I ordered a “Schezwan Paneer Chilly” pie, topped with bricks of Indian cottage cheese, red onions, bell peppers and Sichuan sauce. I was ready to dismiss this seemingly random concoction, but have to admit it was quite good — the crust was legit and the Indo-Chinese spices balanced nicely with the mozzarella and paneer cheeses. I ate two slices and tossed the remainder in the car with the rest of my leftovers, which, like much Chinese takeout, was arguably better a day later.

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