Fashion Week Briefing: The New Oscar de la Renta Designers Debut


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Models at the Proenza Schouler show.
CreditElizabeth Lippman for The New York Times

If the red-carpet parade and weird outfits at the Grammys left you with a bit of a fashion hangover, well, too bad.

The fifth day of New York Fashion Week was one of its busiest, packed to the brim with shows from industry heavy hitters, including Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta.

The two American houses were involved in a lawsuit late last year after Carolina Herrera’s former creative director, Laura Kim, left the label for Oscar de la Renta — less than a year after departing from Oscar de la Renta in the first place. Mrs. Herrera’s company asserted that Ms. Kim’s quick move was a breach of her noncompete contract, and demanded that she immediately cease working on her fall 2017 collection for Oscar de la Renta. Oscar de la Renta fired back, accusing Carolina Herrera of poaching its employees.

Alas, the two labels settled in early January, allowing Ms. Kim and her creative partner, Fernando Garcia, to complete work on the collection they showed this evening.

Here’s what else you missed.

1. The new Oscar de la Renta was revealed — but only after Monse.

The labels showed together, with the two collections coming out one after the other.

2. Carolina Herrera dug into the details — specifically, bows.

Our fashion critic wondered whether Mrs. Herrera searched for refuge in the minutia of her designs after being distracted by her label’s gossip-fueling lawsuit.

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CreditJennifer S. Altman for The New York Times

3. Proenza Schouler, a favorite of critics, did logos.

The designers said the collection was their “representation of New York.”

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CreditElizabeth Lippman for The New York Times

4. Zadig & Voltaire suggested a new way to accessorize.

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CreditBen Sklar for The New York Times

What to look out for tomorrow.

– America’s fashion sweetheart Tory Burch starts the day off.

– Coach, the label whose logo became omnipresent in the early aughts, has its show in the afternoon.

– Zac Posen, “Project Runway” judge, go-to dresser for celebrities hitting the red carpet and designer of Delta’s new uniforms, ends the day with an untraditional show.



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